What a lovely day today.
Not so lovely early rise at 6:30. Evan was kind enough to say how much he liked me in the morning. I know, who doesn’t? “such a charmer” he said.
So Foreste, Evan and I made our way to Chicama, in search of the longest left hand break in the world. Chicama is pretty small, a quiet town about an hour from Huanchaco. When it comes to tourists, they clearly only attract the keen surfer ones.
The view over the waves from the town up high was really a beautiful sight, hard to grasp in a picture, so we sat at the top for a while to soak it in (and finish waking up).
Unfortunately it wasn’t the best Chicama day. Something to do with the wind and the current meant that the waves weren’t tottaly joining up, so they probably weren’t the longest waves in the world on that day. They were however, still pretty damn long! And not too tall which made them perfect for me and Foreste to practice on. Evan managed to catch the longest wave of his surfing career, so good day for us all.
Strangely surfing is still an enigma for me, I don’t quite know why I go back out everyday. Even if I had caught the longest wave in the world, I can’t imagine you can stay on it for more than 20 seconds. If you’re snowboarding you can ride for hours without having to get a chairlift. I may never understand it, but me and Maya (yes, my board has a name) had a great day. Our team of three were too lazy to climb back up the beach for lunch, so we opted for a break on the sand instead. This quickly turned into a handstand and cartwheel session (as per). Followed by Evan trying to bomb me and Foreste with sand, using his board as a bunker. This backfired completely as there was one of him and two of us.
What a lovely day today.
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