I’m not sure I would have carried on surfing so much if it wasn’t for my surf buddies. The main one being Foreste of course, but never forgetting Evan, Becca and Rosanne and many others. It has never mattered how bad I or we are when we surf together.
There is nothing like paddling through some crazy waves, getting knocked back 5 meters for every 2, and just looking at each other like “what the fuck!” And shouting “I’M NOT SURE (wave) WHAT I’M TRYING TO (wave) ACHIEVE HERE”.
The fits of laughter we have got into realising how ridiculous we must look completely makes it worth the multiple mouthfuls of sea water.
And when we do make it to Denmark (past the break), congratulating each other on arriving to the flat part of the sea, realising that “Denmark” is not a technical surfing term and that might explain some strange looks by real surfer will set us off again.
Practicing standing up and duck diving when there are no waves or seeing if we can flip our boards over and back right while still on it provides us with hours of priceless entertainment.
I’m going to miss the waves, in going to miss the surf, and in going to miss my surf buddies.