On the 4th of August I went out for a surf at 8 am. Now, I am not a morning person (I’m sure if you know me you already know that), but for some reason getting up to surf isn’t that difficult. Usually, I peel myself out of bed, get changed, grab a board and go. My eyes are barely open when I dip my feet in the ocean, but as the first wave smacks me in the face I think “ok, I’m awake now, let’s do this”. But for some reason this morning, when the first wave hit I thought “urgh, f*ck this”. I’d made the effort to come out though so I thought I’d give it a go anyway. The waves weren’t big but they were steep which I’m not good with still, so after a couple of wipe outs I sat on my board out on the line up, and made up my very own surf commandments. No particular reason, they have no use. I was just bored and cold so it entertained me for a little bit.
So far I have 19, and here they are in no particular order:
- Thou shall not wait for the perfect wave, thou shall learn to surf every wave, big, small, choppy, barrelling or none existent.
- When near the ocean, thou shall surf every day.
- Thou shall continue to use ones own surfing terms, eg: the point past the break is called Denmark (cos it goes really flat).
- Thou shall laugh at oneself when thou falls off the board when sat on it doing nothing at all (and continue to call this a Mikkel cos he did it the most).
- Thou shall not hold back from punching the air when surfing like a god.
- Thou shall not be intimidated by the line up of aggressive looking surfers. If thou misjudges a wave and cuts one up thou hopes he will not cry.
- Thou shall not try to look cool when walking with a surfboard, thou is guarantied to trip up.
- Thou shall never swim against the current or thou shall loose.
- When waiting for a wave, thou shall practice pop ups, duck diving or turning the board upside down and back over whilst lying on it. If nothing else, to try and crack a smile from said aggressive looking surfers.
- Thou shall try and lighten up the mood on the line up by saying hello to fellow surfers.
- Thou shall not be annoyed at being a girl and not being as strong as boys, but embrace it and be the best thou can be.
- If thou can not surf, thou shall perfect the duck dive.
- Thou shall not diss the ocean or thou shall be reminded who is boss.
- Thou shall surf with friends, and when surfing alone thou shall remember the fits of giggles thou got into while surfing with friends, laugh again and not give a damn if the other surfers think thou is crazy.
- Thou will always enjoy surfing, if it looses it’s fun, thou shall surf no more.
- Thou shall understand that walking with a surfboard leads people to believe that one can surf, thou shall not be afraid to go in the water and show them that in fact, one can’t.
- Thou shall always thoroughly rinse ones wetsuit, as thou does not know how many people have peed in it.
- Thou shall surf a tube in the near future.
- Thou will not attempt to understand why one surfs.
all we do is surf 🙂
Ever thought of writing a Surfer’s Bible, Jenny?
Now that is a great idea!